That was quick! Looks well nice. Many, many happy virtual motoring miles!
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So jealous! Hope you Rally lekker!
Where did you buy? Official Moza store? That was super quick!
Also, looking forward to hearing your thoughts of the wheel base.
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Couldn’t mount it 
So, will need to order some more aluminium something something, to jimmy something, until I can get the official Moza R9 table clamp, which also doubles as a mounting plate for a simrig.
Hell, I had the whole world in pieces, and then had to put it back to together. Man what an evening, last night was 
Edit: What actually was the problem. I guess, if any of you want to go for the same base, it’s good to know details, so…
I have an aluminium profile rig, but I don’t have any base steel plate, for mounting a wheel. So the Thrustmaster TS-XW mounts with it’s own screws onto 90° 40mm die cast brackets, which connects to 2 PG40 (40mm) aluminium profile pieces mounted length-wise on the main cross beam support. It’s perfectly fine for the Thrustmaster wheels, all because the length of the screws are good enough, and the mount holes in the Thrustmaster wheels, actually go straight through, so you have more leeway (because of the depth of the drilled holes), that you can use much longer screws.
The R9’s mount screw-holes, are drilled for a very shallow depth, and they give you cap screws that only have a length of, seems like around 14mm. This all adds up to it being too short, when you add the thickness of the side of the die cast bracket. And the old screws I was using, are far too long, so while they are M6, they provide no ridigity, because they can’t screw in flush through the die cast bracket, and keep the wheel base in place. I need to find probably 20 or 25 mm length screws, I think that will do it.
Now if you managed to follow that correctly, I salute you. Now let me go cry silently in the corner.
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That actually makes perfect sense! A little mumbly, but still.
So, my wheel is fitted to a 4mm aluminium plate, with holes drilled in by myself, using the Thrustmaster template from the box. It works perfectly because the base has a built in angle for the wheel.
So, @aldyr:
- does the R9 only have bottom mounting holes?
- in theory, if I have a 4mm plate, the 14mm screws should work fine as they have a 10mm grip in the R9 holes?
If you want to go the plate way like me, you might need to find a way to adjust the plate angle. Oh, and the plate was super cheap from an aluminium windows manufacturer in town, so it was a no brainer for me.
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It doesn’t have side mount points.
Found the right length cap screws at a local shop. Now just to figure out how to mount it all with only 2 hands. The short screw are what they give, the long screws are typically what Thrustmaster gives.
I did order the official mount place. It looks like it would work for the CSL DD too. And the R9 mount is angle adjustable.
Lawd, this has taken too much time. Hopefully I have the wheel base up and running tonight. Then I’ll try and mount the pedals, which possibly gives me more time tomorrow morning, to run for any other bits, I might not have. And no, I ain’t disassembling the pedals right now. The way the room is setup now, it’s not really that accessible, without basically taking the work space apart 
Now the wait, till the day’s work is done, fffuuuuuu
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Got the wheel mounted, no pedals yet. Tested dirt rally in a very familiar car, and location: R5 Peugeot, Te Awanga, the short stage. I know dirt, so I perhaps that will give me something to compare with.
You can feel the cornering g-force. Every bloody detail in the road. Braking hard seems to have a weight to it. High speed puts on a heaviness to the wheel, and a mushy feeling, when trying to turn at high speed. I guess that tracks with the nature of the multi layer surface in dirt, and the way the tyres would behave. Or not , I don’t know. It is noticeable enough to warn you, that you’re flying, and one wrong move and you are fucked. Collisions are brutal, because the wheel actually ripped out of my grip. It goes suitably light weight when the rear steps out. And during that, the wheel counters rotates as you’re oversteering, giving you feeling of being connected to what the car is doing. I never knew that the thrustmaster ts-xw was actually ever so slightly behind, when trying to keep up when you’re drifting through a few consecutive corners, and you’re letting the wheel naturally feed through your fingers.
Did I mention, 9nm is stupid heavy?!? I have it on 80% of that. Group B RWD is difficult to drive now, because I tuned the weight of the wheel against the R5 class
What’s astonishing, is that all these sensations feel, unique to the moment. Once you start matching the feeling with what the car is doing, you start to think less and just drive. To put this in perspective: on the stage, I had a mid 3:17 with VR. I got down to 3:13.0##. On. A. Monitor. Adjust for the natural tendency to just get better at a stage, as you drive it more. 4 and a half seconds on a past me, confident that I had wrung the shit out of that stage in VR, barring the cheaty cuts that the leaderboard drivers use. It is still no small feat to demolish my previous time, while not actively chasing, but actually just trying to get used to how the wheel feels.
This is my first direct drive wheel. It is heavy or light, if you want it to be. But it is capable of so much unique detail in what it communicates to you. The first drive on default, I sat there stunned afterwards thinking: what the fuckity fuck was that WALL of stuff happening just now. I have never felt so many different types of vibrations and things through the other wheels. Is this broken? Did I connect something wrong? Is the rig rattling?
Then you realise it’s like 30 people screaming one and only one word. You can’t hear shit until you dial in the volume.
Enter the software. Most of the controls have tooltips explaining what it does. 90% of them make sense. The FFB Equalizer is bloody amazing. I set the degrees to 900 on the basic tab. Then turned up specific things I wanted, on the equalizer.
The driving is phenomenal. The moment to moment small corrections, are easier to make, because the wheel communicates what’s happening accurately and with no perceptible latency. I didn’t think the ts-xw had latency or lag, before this. This shows it does, in certain situations, where the belt just can’t match how quickly the magnets can snap the wheel back, in a direct drive wheel. Is it worth the money? 
I do know driving them side by side, so to speak, it’s like comparing a 60’s car with one from 2020. They’ll both get you to woolies for that bloody rotisserie chicken, but the newer one is objectively better is almost every way.
Sorry, not sorry, about the wall of text.
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Love reading that! Enjoy it!
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No need to apologise for this wall of text - is a great read and a fantastic “review”. 
Looking forward to seeing your DR2 times improve even more, and finishing MEW events even further behind you than before.
(In fact, while it’s still so recent, you should go set up a Custom Championship replicating some of the conditions and surface settings from our New Zealand event and post your new times versus the ones you did a few days ago.)
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Oy make and article out of this and Greg or I will post it on your behalf! Add pics once you are all done!
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I case anyone here needs this for their rig.
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That is so cool! Nice little, immersive touch
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Hahaha classic Kelvin with his write ups. Brilliant.
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It was so well written and such a joy to read! If I had the cash, I would buy that setup now!
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This is the Moza CRP Pedals. It is their best pedals, with the Moza SRP Pedals being more like the CSL DD Pedals. Looking at the market segment, I think they want the CRP Pedals to compete with the Heusinkveld Ultimates at 30% cheaper, but they are double the price of Fanatec clubsport V3’s. I checked pricing against digital-motorsports and egsimrigs.co.za. Though, I think those percentages shrink with the international shipping costs, so it’s actually much less at checkout (thanks SA economy 
)
Anyway, moving on. These pedals are superb. Multistage clutch. Brake pedal needs so much force to get to 100%, and has good travel. Throttle pedal has long travel. Seems to help feeding powerful cars on corner exit, helping to tame the rear. I would say, if you are driving a sequential ie. left foot braking, the amount of accuracy you have is next level. I need a massive amount of force to left foot brake, compared with my old pedals, and this is the default medium damper. Perhaps I’ll be able to trail brake better in ACC now (yeah, probably not 
)
If you are driving manual cars, and need to heel toe… you will need to learn how to do that again. My immediate thoughts are, heel toe on these pedals, forces you to pivot your ankle vertically much more to get your toe on the brake, and your heel on the bottom left edge of the throttle pedal. You can’t use the top of the throttle pedal, because of the long throw in the pedal. You would land up with your toe in front of your heel, and your foot horizontal. That’s your foot, effectively pointing back over your left shoulder. It’s fine, it’s just learning to aim for the bottom of the pedal, ie. new technique. In retrospect, I think I learnt a bad technique, because of the way I configured the Thrustmaster T-LCM’s. And that’s not down to the T-LCM’s being bad. It’s probably my fault. 
I would have liked more adjustability with positioning for the throttle relative to the brake, w.r.t. to the front and rear of the pedal plate. I usually have the brake further back than the throttle, which makes heel toe easier without the need to be a contortionist.
Build quality and tolerances seem as good as the best in the market. They have thought of most things. Pedal faces can adjust left and right, as well as the pedal angle. The pedal plate holes have thread, so no nuts are needed on the end of the bolts. It also helps when mounting options on the rig itself, because if you had to hold both a bolt and a nut, in a tight cramped space, with 2 long spanners, you could struggle to tighten them. While the back 4 screws on each pedal can be slid about a cm forward/back, because the front 2 screws on each pedal, is a normally drilled hole, it negates the sliding. Don’t know why they did that. You can just remove the front 2 screws, then at least you have some room to adjust forward. Though, I wouldn’t do that for the brake, considering how hard you will be stamping on that brake. The throttle is probably the only pedal, where this is most likely an option, because the throttle is the lightest pedal.
Changing dampers or springs, is not trivial (especially with the brake), but is well documented, with videos on their official channel. You can adjust preload as you need, with one nut. Oh, and the cable management is excellent, I would go so far as to call it tasteful. The pedals can be used independent of any Moza hardware. It’s a simple USB-A cable.
All things considered, I can see how these will make you very consistent, because the brake is firm enough to use it as the anchor point, to blip the throttle on down shifts. I just can’t seem to blip it hard enough to get the rev’s up in dirt rally. But I guess that’s down to learning the new technique and building up that muscle memory.
So far so good. Positive to excellent experience with these Moza products. I’m happy as a dog on a walk with his human.
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DUDE I am making your posts into an article 
(Once its all done)
Sorry Wyv’s, I write on the conversational side, with a lot of slang, questionable grammar and phrases that people might only connect with, if they have spoken to me. So these might not be the best written tiny reviews, and probably not fit for public consumption. Feel free to do whatever, but I am by no means a @GregRedd or @DieGrootHammer that writes fantastic articles.
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Hey neither am I, but I can edit So I will take it and just rework it here and there, plus the slag and conversational side is what I like about it 
It makes it more personal and gives readers the feeling that you are not talking kak
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I agree with Wyvern, I liked it the way it was written!
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Then call it an opinion piece, let Wyv make your grammar smart like, and hit the publish button.
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So, if someone already had TLCM pedals, would this be a worthy upgrade? Or do you think this budget is better spent on other goodies? Like better GPU or button boxes etc? Asking for a friend… 
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