Any reason why I can’t get to the E drive after formatting and reinstalling windows but the F drive works fine?
I’m guessing you need to go to Properties → Security and take ownership of the drive. This usually occurs when trying to access user folders on a hard drive (C:\Users\Username) from another Windows installation (i.e. in a duel boot scenario).
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Thanks. Its actually going through and changing the ownership of every steam file.
I can barely use my phone any more as a result of this constantly coming up:
Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.
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You can try clearing the App cache for the “Google” App.
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Maybe you guys can help me. So for the life of me I’m googling away but my boss has a problem so his phone is connected to his car via Bluetooth so when he plays a voice note on WhatsApp it’s not coming through on the speakers. Now I’ve looked for a setting on both his phone and on the car and there’s nothing I can see
Edit: Problem also happens when he is changing his phone while driving. Is a wired connection then
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I know whatsapp for me can be quite finnicky with voicenotes and if it “detects” that the phone is against your ear it will play using the internal speaker rather than the “loud” one. Sometimes this includes just the fact that the screen goes off (so halfway thru a long message). Maybe a red herring, maybe something to look at?
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With my ford sync radio only calls work directly. Both normal voice and whatsapp calls.
If i want to use google maps or whatsapp voice notes i have to switch the radio to aux input over bluetooth to hear anything. Try switching to aux and see if that works maybe?
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Boot the phone into recovery mode then clear the cache from recovery mode. Might be a bad file causing issues.
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Anyone know of trusted online stores where I can buy hikvision PoE IP cameras? for outdoor use.
EDIT: Currently on a site CCTV-Direct, anyone heard of them, or ordered from them before?
Yea something certainly doesn’t look right there. it has 15k host writes and 8k nand writes yet 100% value, and a raw value of 15 for uncorrectable sector count. step 1 would certainly be to backup whats on that drive. step 2 might be to try see if theres a firmware update, maybe something gone fucked up the smart data. now smart data is sadly not as standardized as one would hope, so vendors sometimes do different interpretations.
The raw value for your percentage lifetime remaining is 5A (hex) which is 90. so theoretically the drive is still “ok”, but yea the fact that everything is showing as 100 is a little worrying.
It could also be a cable fault or the sata port itself, those love to cause little buggerups…but i keep looking back at the uncorrectable sector count. that you never wanna see going up.
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Thanks, will try the firmware thing once I can get onto the mushkin site.
Interestingly I did try a new cable and port, no change there.
How full is the drive ?
I would do a backup anyway before anything else.
Strange that it slowed down so badly but health is not degraded. Have you tried their health utility just in case it cant update crystal disk?
Format and see how it goes if it stays bad replace it.
Not very full.
71.9GB Used space
858GB Free space
930GB Capacity
What should I backup?
If its your root drive (it looks like its C drive there), then possibly documents/downloads, there might be games/program configs that are in appdata you would want to have. If you’re confident you’d be happy to format/reload OS (windows is very forgiving/lenient with license renewal these days) then theres not much to back up. Basically everyone is always gonna give you “back up first” advise because it IS the best advise, and a “no harm” approach, whereas theres nothing worse than being halfway though OS reload and reinstall of all your programs and realising shit, i had this program setup just the way i like it, and now i dont remember how i did it.
best of luck!
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Thanks for the advice so far. When buying a new SSD (might as well) What would you guys recommend?
Same brand/type and hope its different this time? Do you guys have a brand you like?
Well, are you talking SATA ssd or NVME?
If you have the slot in your motherboard i’d suggest an NVME one. Then which ssd you get would depend on WHAT pcie gen speed you have. No real point in getting a pcie4 speed nvme if your slot is only gen3, then you just paying for speed you wont use…(although you can get gen3 nvme on gen4slot, they are likely cheaper, since slower).
Then it depends on size. I assume 1tb to replace what you lost. Depending on SSD vs NVME and then if NVME 3 or 4 gen I might have some recommendations/links for you 
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Based on the info in @czc’s initial post, I’m guessing SATA. Possibly this one, or similar:
I see it’s on steep sale there at the moment too. Probably because it’s quite old now. For what it’s worth, I have a 500GB Mushkin drive (not the same as that one though) that I’ve had for ages without issue.
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Thats the one. And thats a great price!
So yeah, SATA is the only option at this time.