Copy the sheet to a new new one without formatting. Should remove the crap.
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ew
12345
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You might be able to select/right-click to delete it if you go to your ribbon → Developer Tab → Design Mode, or just search for design mode. That’s what you’d use to put in blocks/checkboxes/radio buttons, so it follows that that’s what you’d use to remove it. 
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I did the Nima’s suggestion and that worked well.
I tried everything else.
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I have a strange issue whereby if I play any in the WhatsApp desktop app, it seems to lock out the use of my media keys on both the external and native Macbook keyboard. To rectify this I have to quit WhatsApp to enable the functionality again.
Any thoughts or ideas, it didn’t always be like this so I suspect a WhatsApp update caused it at some point.
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I have a bad feeling that one of my HDD is starting to fail. Getting random checking disks messages during windows startup.
Looking at replacement drives I see a WD Blue 2TB 5400rpm SATA 6Gb/s @ R999
https://www.takealot.com/wd-blue-2tb-5400rpm-sata-6gb-s-256mb-cache-3-5-inch-internal-har/PLID71423325
or
Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200rpm SATA 6Gb/s @ R1,269
https://www.takealot.com/seagate-barracuda-desktop-2tb-3-5-internal-hard-drive/PLID55017393
This is my primary drive for game installs.
I’ve not bought drives in many year. Will the RPMs and slightly higher maximum data transfer rate of the Seagate (220mb/s vs 180mb/s) have any real-world improvement and worth the extra money. Don’t have the budget for an SSD.
From what I see online the reliability of WD vs Seagate is also about the same.
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Given the choice of those two I’d personally opt for the faster Seagate. The differences may be marginal, but there’s definitely some value in having faster transfer speeds, especially if you’re doing a lot of high graphic gaming.
That said though, I’d definitely give up the space for a smaller SSD. I know you said it’s out of your budget, but there a couple of SSD specials worth looking at. Here’s one that’s 50% off for a pretty decently reviewed 1TB Rogueware currently at R949 - cheaper than the slower WD HDD even:
https://www.takealot.com/rogueware-nx100s-1tb-sata3-2-5-3d-nand-solid-state-drive/PLID90998973
I’d rather have to juggle 1TB of game installs on a SSD, than have 2TB of HDD space.
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If you’re in a fix and in need of a drive or four, I happen to have. I don’t want anything for them as I have no use for them.
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@GregRedd That is actually perfect. Didn’t see that one because I automatically ruled out SSDs, I thought they will be to expensive. Want to replace a 1TB in my ancient PC anyway, and an SSD can be carried forward if I ever do get to upgrading.
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You won’t regret going with an SSD, it is the single most noticeable upgrade you can make to any PC.
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Does anyone know if its possible to track down what files are needed to run a program that wont run on windows 10 but does currently run since it started out as a windows 7 install and got upgraded to windows 10.
Dilemma is that I have a SSD available at work but a clean install of windows 10 will prevent Inventor 2012 from running.
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I’m assuming you’ve tried compatibility mode?
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There’s your problem…
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You might want to start here: Solved: Autodesk Inventor 2012 does not run on Windows 10 - Autodesk Community
But if you want to get your hands dirty, you can try using Process Monitor - Sysinternals | Microsoft Learn on the Windows 10 it’s not working on.
It logs everything a specific process accesses/looks for (e.g. Files, registry entries, etc.) and the errors for stuff it cant load/access.
Be warned though that it logs a massive amount of info. Try using filters for only what you want to monitor. Also, it scary the amount of error that gets logged during the normal operations of an application that you just never see. Most wont even be related to your actual problem.
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The time has come to do some serious research and beg for some help from those in the know here in MEW: a trolley inverter to run my PC/2 monitors and a little wifi router for 4 hours. From my calculations online, I will need 400-500w per hour for 4 hours. I assume this means I will need a 2000w/h setup. Please correct me if I am wrong but I will need:
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An inverter, which is basically a box with some interface panels that converts eskom power to charge the batteries. When you buy this, you get it empty, without batteries, correct?
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Batteries: I am obviously looking at balancing long term cost of replacement with initial cost. I assume the LiFePO4 batteries are good to last for at least 4 years or so (looking at an average of 1 to maybe 2 cycles a day), if I make sure I keep them inside certain charge parameters?
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Possible semi portable solar panels to charge it all up if eskom goes dark for longer than 4 hours.
I already run a generator which is costing me over R2k a month in fuel. I want to keep that for night time usage to run household only and use the inverter when I work in the day.
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How willing are you to plan around budget. A simple mustek inverter with dual 200ah batteries will work well for around 13k. But batteries will last approx 6 to 9 months then you will start javing iasues with longevity.
Ecoflow delta 2 will be my choice for 10 year plan and allows for solar connections and also ability to add a 2nd battery later.
However i would almost rather suggest getting a 5kw sunsynk inverter and lifepo4 battery at 5kwh or even 10kwh. Can add proper solar as and when you can.
Each steps jumpa the peice with the “proper” solution being the last one for 15 year or longer plan. 60k average cost so not cheap… just dependa on what you can afford and how much future proofing you want to make.
You can check the new Lalela options from builders as the new units are lifepo4 with 5000 cycles.
You can get them feom a few places now.
Check your accountant to see how much you can use company finances to write it off etc.
For me , i am saving up to go with full inverter and big battery as the cheaper options work for a while then just breaks and you wasted 5k…
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+1 to the Ecoflow Delta 2! We have one at the office and recently ran 6 laptops and 12 monitors through a 4 hour load shedding stint. I don’t know how it managed to do it, but it ended with 4% battery life left. Phenomenal portable solution and dead quiet. Our Ellies inverter + 200ah battery combo at home is incredibly noisy when the power goes out.
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Downside to the ecoflow is you have to replace the whole unit when the batteries are dead, you can’t replace the batteries
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But as @Nimatek says, you have a 10-year window for the unit. At roughly R25k for the unit, that’s R2500k per year, or just over R200 per month for the backup power. Not too bad, considering the value it will give you over that period.
Looking at 10 years worth of innovation and improvement, the AIO units will undoubtedly be better by that time. Buying a decent inverter to be able to link up replaceable batteries will cost almost the same.
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Very good point, guess I need to calculate how long the ecoflow will last for me specifically
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